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Determinate vs. Indeterminate Potatoes: Why Hilling Might Be Wasting Your Time

Jackie planting Cal White seed potatoes in a green metal raised bed in her Seattle backyard, with chitted seed potatoes spaced out on the dark soil and an egg carton holding the remaining seed potatoes nearby
I was planting Cal White seed potatoes in the raised bed last week, spacing them out and getting them ready to cover, when I decided to read up on the variety one more time. That is when I found out Cal Whites are determinate, which means hilling them later does not actually give you more potatoes. I have been hilling every potato I have ever grown like it was the most important task of the season, and for varieties like this one, all that extra work was for nothing.

I planted Cal White seed potatoes last week, and while I was getting them into the raised bed I started reading up on the variety. Here is what I found out: Cal Whites are determinate. That means they set all their tubers in one layer, close to the seed piece, and hilling them later does not actually give you more potatoes.


I have been hilling every potato I have ever grown like it was the most important task of the season. Years of extra shoveling for nothing, at least on the determinate varieties. And honestly, nobody told me. Most seed packets do not even mention whether a variety is determinate or indeterminate, so unless you go looking for this information, you would never know.


What is the difference?


Determinate potatoes grow as a compact bush, flower all at once, and produce their tubers in a single layer near the seed piece. They mature early, usually in 70 to 90 days. Because the tubers form in one layer, hilling does not increase your harvest. You still want to cover any exposed tubers so they do not turn green from sunlight, but beyond that, leave them alone.


Indeterminate potatoes are a different story. They grow taller, keep flowering throughout the season, and form new tubers along the buried stem as you mound soil higher around the plant. These are the varieties where hilling actually pays off, because every time you add soil, you are creating more space for tubers to develop. They take longer to mature, usually 110 to 135 days, and they need consistent attention throughout the summer.


Determinate vs. Indeterminate Potatoes: What Every PNW Gardener Should Know


If you are growing potatoes in the Pacific Northwest, here are the varieties you are most likely to find at local nurseries, and whether they are determinate or indeterminate.


A flat-lay harvest of homegrown potatoes laid out on a green and white checkered kitchen towel, showing a wide variety: red-skinned potatoes in the top left, larger yellow and tan potatoes in the middle, and dozens of small yellow fingerlings along the bottom
A real harvest from one growing season, with several varieties side by side. You can see the difference in size, skin color, and shape across types, from the larger red-skinned and yellow potatoes at the top to the fingerlings at the bottom. Growing more than one variety is one of the easiest ways to spread out your harvest window and get a feel for which ones thrive in your specific raised bed.

Determinate (early to midseason, 70 to 90 days):


Yukon Gold, Norland, Red Pontiac, Cal White, Superior, Fingerling varieties like French Fingerling and Amarosa, Gold Rush, and Adirondack Blue or Red. These are your fast-harvest, low-maintenance varieties. Great for containers and raised beds where space is limited.


Indeterminate (late season, 110 to 135 days):


Russet Burbank, Kennebec, German Butterball, All-Blue, Bintje, Carola, Nicola, and Satina. These are the ones that reward consistent hilling with a bigger harvest. They also tend to store better over the winter, which is worth thinking about if you want potatoes through the fall and into December.


What this means for your garden


If you are growing determinate potatoes, plant them about four inches deep in loose soil, cover any exposed tubers to prevent greening, and let them do their thing. You do not need to keep mounding soil around the plant every two weeks.


If you are growing indeterminate potatoes, start the same way, but plan to hill them when the stems reach about six inches. Add a few inches of soil, compost, or straw around the base, leaving the top leaves in the sun. Repeat every couple of weeks through the growing season. This is where the extra effort actually translates into more potatoes in the ground.


Side-by-side diagram comparing determinate and indeterminate potato plants. The determinate plant on the left is short and bushy with all tubers in a single layer near the seed piece, labeled with examples Cal White, Yukon Gold, and Norland, and noting that hilling does not increase yield. The indeterminate plant on the right is tall with tubers forming in four stacked layers along a buried stem inside a mounded soil hill, labeled with examples Russet Burbank, Kennebec, and German Butterball, and noting that hilling does increase yield.
Determinate potatoes set their tubers in one layer, close to the seed piece. Indeterminate potatoes keep forming new tubers along the buried stem as you mound soil higher. That single difference is why hilling matters for one type and is wasted effort for the other.

The biggest takeaway for me is that knowing which type you are growing changes how much work your potato bed actually requires. I could have saved myself a lot of unnecessary hilling over the years if I had just looked this up sooner. The good news is that now I know, and now you do too.


If you want to see the Cal White planting that started this whole realization, I posted a video about it on Facebook this week. And if you are planning your spring planting and want to see exactly when to get potatoes and 40 other crops into the ground in our climate, the PNW Crop Planner Pro has you covered.


Happy growing,


Jackie


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